Sunday, March 28, 2010

One Last Snack, Then Home Again, Hippety Hop


Did not get to
"the most beautiful beach in Ecuador"
although it's only
an hour or so away
from my little beach hideaway.
Did not get to
the indigenous town
fresh breezes, history, sulfur springs
near
"the most beautiful beach in Ecuador."
Last day
no desire to adventure out
away from my shady hammock
above the ocean
except
to wrap myself
middle-eastern style
against the sun
and take a long walk
to sample the famed
corviche
at a shack that's renowned for it.
The dough is made with ground peanuts
(peanut butter?)
molded into a potato shape
around fish or shrimp or chicken
and deep fried.
Looks like a potato, in fact
and you cut it open baked potato style
to eat it with a squeeze of lime
or hot salsa
crunchy, gooey, muy rico
with a tall glass of lemonade.
And now it's time to go home.
Wet bathing suit in backpack.
The end.

Friday, March 26, 2010

Last Day in Paradise


Swim, walk on beach, eat, read, repeat.
Wake up tomorrow before dawn
on the beach
but
go to sleep
in my bed in NY.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Poor Man's Galapagos


Excursion out of paradise
with Argentinian couple from the cabin next door.
Isla la Plata
“The Poor Man’s Galapagos”
recommended by LP and others as a
“must see”
if the Galapagos are out of reach.
Off we go
on a little boat
full of tourists
from different parts of the world.
A breezy hour on the open sea
and then
up looms the island
birds circling
cameras come out
we wade ashore
wait
form groups
choose routes
wait
in a scorching sun
more pix
and then
we hike
brutal sun
brutal heat
slo-o-o-o-wly
in a line, in a pack, I have no hat
a little Bhattan Death March
of several hours
to see
some birds
two or three kinds
including, at the turn-around-point of our march
the famed blue-footed bootie
who hides
‘Where’s Waldo’ style
in jungle foliage.
Ah, there!
Cameras.
And we hike back
brutal sun, heat
to the boat
plunge into the ocean
the brass ring at last
sandwiches
back to mainland
Gilligan’s Island meets Huis Clos.
Kinda fun
kinda not
so happy to be back in my hammock
in Paradise.

Paraiso





Taxi→propeller plane→taxi→chicken bus→walk→
Paradise at the end of the road.
A thatch-roofed cabin on a hill
in the forest
a panoramic view of the Pacific
from the hammock of my little balcony
jungle sounds mixing with the sound of thunderous waves
northern hemisphere stars meet southern
great ceviche
good conversation in the main lodge of the hostal over meals.
Wondering why I am among
the fortunate few.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Photos of week one

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2059239&id=1234532784&l=609cc2073d

Fanesca!


Chicken bus, literally, to Quito
as people from the animal market piled on.
The most rickety bus I've been on yet in this country
and the end-of-the world movie
they cranked up at top volume
wasn't a good sign.
But here I am again
in time to try the famous Ecuadorian fanesca
for lunch
made only this time of year.

Because It's There


Walked all over Otavalo
watching the city wake up.
Then followed the old railroad tracks
to the little weavers' town of Peguche
and from there
up to a waterfall
me and several hundred school children
so I was right at home
chatting it up with them and their teachers.
Accompanied from Peguche by my
new best friend
woof-woof, one blue eye, one brown
who stuck to my side for a couple of hours
as I got lost and found and lost
in the mountains above the falls
looking for the next stop on my walking tour.
Shared my water with him
and then
had to trick him into returning to Peguche
with someone I stopped on the road
afraid he'd follow me back to Otavalo
and be lost.
So sad to see him go.
I may have become a dog person
very late in life.
Kept climbing
and getting lost
offered directions
rides
finally
a summit
views
a magical tree called el Lechero
my goal
because it was there.
Back to town
and a well-earned lunch.
Chatted with a delicious older couple
who'd moved to Israel
from Argentina.
When discussing our hotels
I confessed my sleeping neuroses.
Said she:
Oh, well, you're Jewish, of course.
After lunch
found a secondary school
across from the bus station
where I asked if I could see a class
and was left alone
in a classroom
with fifty or sixty 8th graders.
Really.
We did a little English class
I made them laugh
I left them
with no adult in the room
as they'd been when I arrived.
The one adult I saw there
sat behind a door labeled 'inspector'
and initialed students' homework notebooks
without reading what was in them
or recording anything.
Finished up the day
with music.
Arrived early
and was able to talk to the musicians
as they set up
about what their instruments were called
and how they were tuned.
Excellent day.

* * * * * * *

6 AM animal market.
People being yanked around by unruly pigs
dead chickens, live chickens, chickens in between
guinea pigs (a local specialty)
cows, bulls.
Almost too sad to take pictures.
Almost.
¿Donde esta el restaurante vegetariano?